Zeppelin men's watch with automatic movement

Some watches hide their inner workings behind a plain dial. This one doesn't. The Zeppelin 8658-1 belongs to the New Captain's Line and lets you watch the automatic movement through an open display set right into the centre of the dial, so the small gears and rotors are on show every time you glance at your wrist. At 42mm across, it sits with enough presence to notice without tipping into bulky. The case runs on a self-winding mechanism, meaning your own daily wrist movement keeps it powered, no batteries involved. This is a watch for the man who wants a bit of visible engineering under the glass, paired with a nod to aviation history most people won't clock at first glance.

The dial itself is white, with gold-coloured Arabic numerals set around the edge and white stitch-mark detailing that echoes the strap below. Zeppelin fitted the 8658-1 with a dark brown leather strap, stitched in white to tie the whole face together in one clean line from dial to wrist. The brand takes its name from the German airships that once relied on precise instruments to navigate the skies, and that same instrument-panel feel comes through in the layout here: nothing decorative for the sake of it, everything placed with a purpose. Water resistance rated at 5 ATM covers you through rain, hand washing and the odd splash, though this stays a watch for the office, dinner reservations and days when you want something worth a second look rather than a swim companion. Because the movement winds itself as you move through the day, you can wear it steadily without worrying about it stopping on you overnight.

Specifications

• Model: New Captain's Line, ref. 8658-1
• Movement: automatic
• Case diameter: 42mm
• Water resistance: 5 ATM
• Strap: dark brown leather with white stitching
• Dial: white with gold-coloured numerals and open mechanism display

The Zeppelin 8658-1 suits anyone after a men's watch with a bit of mechanical personality rather than a blank digital face. Put it on in the morning and let it run on its own throughout the day, the movement keeps itself going as long as you're wearing it. If you're drawn to automatic watches with a story behind the name and a design that stands apart from the usual steel-and-glass crowd, this one delivers both.